Altered to Fit

by Evelyn S. Kennedy Sewtique Inc.

Many people believe that clothes are easier to purchase for women than men. After all, if you know your measurements, and with such a wide selection of fashions from size 0 and up, one should be able to readily and easily purchase perfect fitting garments.

In spite of all these variations, it can still be challenging to find clothing to fit your figure which is fashionable as well as comfortable. The size ranges for ladies’ garments is almost impossible to traverse. The problem is that size ranges add confusion to fit. Some people call the concept “vanity sizing.” Measurements attached to a garment are meaningless in as much as size ranges differ for each manufacturer and across garment styles. A size “0” can be radically different for dresses, skirts, or slacks. A size “medium” may fit a size range from an 8 to a 10, or a 12.

Thus, many women defer shopping because they become frustrated, find it time consuming, and unpleasant. Going from store to store for wardrobe choices is one method, and an alternate is to select from catalogs. Fashion images in full color can be attractive and seduce a purchaser, but the actual product may not fit/look the same as on the model, and the saga continues. . .

After selecting a garment, the next step is navigating the fitting room and all its dilemmas. Dishonest mirrors are often placed in small tight areas for figure analysis. Other problems one might encounter include poor lighting and not being able to evaluate the back of the garment. So how does one find clothing that fits well?

In spite of all these variations and misinformation, fashions can be altered to provide a proper body fit. After purchasing your garment, a pleasing fit for your figure and style can be achieved with professional alteration services. There are many fitting solutions and clothing adjustments available, and each individual person and garment are unique in their fitting needs.

Some common garment adjustments include:

Slacks & Trousers
Adjusting the waist, hemline and rise.

Dresses/Skirts:
Shortening or lengthening the hemline, adjusting the waist, and modifying the many styles, including fitted, flared, gathered, lined and unlined.

Jackets/Blouses:
Modifying the collar and sleeves, bust fitting and length adjustments.

Let’s evaluate some of these basic alterations. These suggestions and guidelines will help any sewer to get a feel of common adjustments that will enhance how purchased clothing looks on the wearer.

SLACKS & TROUSERS
A pant hemline starts with proper fit at the waist. If the waist is too loose, the trouser will fall longer. A high waist results in a shorter length. Therefore, the waist, with or without a belt, should be comfortable and snug before determining the length adjustment.

Every wearer has their own idea of how they want their clothing to fit. None is more diverse than at the hemline. Taking into consideration the style of shoe worn with your trousers, a common rule is that the hemline should barely touch the instep in front and touch the heel at the desired length. A plain hem is done on a slant and a cuffed hem will be cut straight across. Some allowance can be made for alternate types of shoe; however, the heel area will help determine correct length. Avoid marking a pant’s length wearing sneakers unless the pant, jeans or sport slacks will accept a sports shoe.

WAISTLINES
Slacks, Jeans & Sportswear
All waists are not created equal.
A waistline is the natural break between the chest and the hip, often recognizable as a contour in the torso. Some people have high waists and a shorter upper torso. Long waisted people often have a longer torso, and some people are average with the waist falling in the middle. Although the body has a set waistline, garment styles may fall at different areas.
• High waist garments fall slightly above the natural waist and are usually fitted. An example for women is the Empire waistline just below the bust area.
• Low waist is usually considered 1” to 2” below the natural body waistline.
• Hip waist is typically resting at the hipbone. This look was most popular in the 1920’s and reappears on occasion with fashion changes. Today this is most visible in jean styles.

SKIRT HEMLINES:
The hemline placement is optional to the wearer’s choice. Sometimes fashion can dictate the latest hemline and it can vary by season and style.
Daytime wear can be at the knee, above or below, according to the height of the wearer. When marking the hemline above the knee give consideration to sitting so you can prevent undergarments from showing.
A long length is set according to relative proportion of the body type and leg shape. A full calf might have a hemline just above the leg break or ankle. A slim leg gives a slim line appearance and the hem might fall mid-calf or a little shorter.
Bridal or party gowns are commonly measured about 1 ½” from the floor and measured with shoes and foundation garments such as a crinoline slip. When fabrics are worn any closer than that to the floor, they may pick up dirt, lint, grass and soil stains, and it may cause difficulties in walking.

Remember, style is not about individual garments but about the message sent through appearance. When “altered to fit” ~ looking great and feeling great go hand in hand.

Evelyn Siefert Kennedy is a textile specialist. She founded Sewtique in June of 1970. Her studio, located in Groton, CT, is a professional sewing studio offering restoration and preservation of textiles and apparel, wedding gowns, alterations, fur, leather, laces and sewing machines sales and service. For more information on the services and specialties Sewtique offers, visit www.sewtiqueonline.com.

Reprinted from SQE Professional, June 2007