Back to the Basics Techniques

Do you know your feet?

by Mary Lou Nall

This is Lesson 3 in a series that will take you “Back to the Basics” of selecting presser feet. The technical details shared will include how the different presser feet available will save you time and produce professional results in any area of home sewing.

The presser feet lessons that will be shared during the upcoming months are as follows:
Lesson 1: Gathering Foot (featured in May 2007 SQE Professional™)
Lesson 2: Piping Foot (featured in June 2007 SQE Professional™)
Lesson 3: Flat Fell Seam Foot; small and large
Lesson 4: Quilting/Patchwork Foot
Lesson 5: Special Piping Foot

Lesson 3: A flat fell seam secures the raw edges. It is a strong seam finish and gives a sport or more tailored look. The #70 foot is for light to medium weight material (For example: childrens’ play clothes, pajamas, etc.)
The #71 foot is for heavier fabric such as denim, light weight upholstery. It would be perfect for an un-lined tote bag.You can become a pro with a minimum amount of practice!

1. Pin fabrics WRONG sides together. The bottom layer extends beyond the upper layer by the width of the groove on the underside of the foot. 4mm for the #70 foot (Figure 1) and 8mm for the #71 foot (Figure 2).

2. Fold extending lower fabric over the top piece and position under presser foot. Sew a few stitches to secure and stop needle in the fabric. Lift presser foot and guide the extending fabric into the foot. The edge of this extension is even and in line with the left edge of the groove on top of foot.

It is important that the same width of material
enter the foot for the length of the seam.

1. Press the seam well.

2. Open the fabric and press again. The seam will stand up.

3. Guide the seam into the foot. Notice hand position in sketch. Stitch and pull fabric gently from each side and let the seam stand up as it feeds into the foot.

4. Finished seam using the #70 foot.

5. Finished seam using the #71 foot.

Mary Lou Nall, a Pensacola, FL, native has been working with Bernina for 35 years. She specializes in Bernina accessories and how the proper use of accessories can save time and give professional results. Mary Lou has worked with Bernina dealers all over the United States, including Hawaii. She is a popular teacher at Bernina University and The Martha Pullen School of Sewing in Huntsville, AL. Her three-hour sit and sew sessions are fun and educational. Her books and DVDs feature even more “back to the basics” information and show step-by-step how to use each foot in this series as well as close up teaching techniques. They can be purchased by e-mailing mltbooks@aol.com or by contacting Bernina of America.

Reprinted from SQE Professional, July 2007