Ask Dave

by Dave Schenk, H-P Products, Inc.

Central vacuum resolutions to practice all year long

This is the time of year when we often hear people talk about resolutions and fresh starts. As the hubbub of the holidays finally starts to die down, we look at what we’ve done over the previous year and what we can improve in the year to come.

One of my resolutions this year is to simplify. I am reminded how important it is to do even the little things extremely well and how much easier our lives will be when we do. I think Mark from Illinois knows what I’m talking about. He writes, “Dave, I’ve finally done it! This is the year that I start selling and installing central vacs. I’m very excited about the possibilities but I also know that I’m starting at the very beginning and have never even done an install before. Can you give me a few basic tips?”

Mark, like all of us, you have a lot to look forward to in 2007, and you’re definitely starting in the right frame of mind. Here are eight simple resolutions for central vacuum installation that should make all central vacuum professionals’ lives easier and our systems perform better in 2007.

1. I will measure twice and cut once.
Measure from the base of the pipe-stop on the inside of the fitting hub when sizing the tubing. As you cut each section of tubing, it should be dry fit before the next measurement is taken.

2. I will always cut straight.
The tubing should be cut as straight and square as possible. I find it easiest to use a tube cutter or deburring tool for this task. Be sure to remove all rough edges inside and outside with a deburring tool, utility knife or coarse sandpaper.

3. I will check the fit before I glue.
Once all the pieces are cut, they should be dry fit to check for correct fit. Use the markings on the fittings to assure proper alignment.

4. I will keep the inside of my fittings clean.
PVC solvent cement actually welds the fitting to the tubing. A chemical reaction permanently joins the molecules from each surface to produce an airtight seal. Before cementing both the tubing and the fitting, they must be free of PVC burrs, dirt and grime. The components should be wiped with a clean cloth if necessary. Cement should only be applied to the outside of the tubing.
Never apply adhesive to the inside of the fitting -- this causes cement to accumulate inside, which reduces airflow and could cause a clog. The tubing should be inserted all the way into the fitting and twisted a quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement. Remove the excess cement with a rag. Always allow the glue to set for several hours before using the system.

5. I will always select the right power unit for the job.
Selecting the proper power unit is critical to the overall performance of a system. The System Capabilities Chart (See Diagram 1) identifies the recommended power unit based on the size of a home, longest run of tubing, and the number of inlet valves. These figures are estimates and need to be used with the actual tube layout and valve placement.

6. I will plan ahead for the most efficient tube path.
Planning the most direct route from power unit to inlet valves will ensure maximum airflow at every inlet valve. Your main trunk line should run from the farthest valve to the power unit, with branch lines running to each individual inlet valve. Tubing can be installed in partitions, crawl spaces, under or between floor joists, on the face of walls or columns in the basement, or in attics. If you install tubing in an attic, be sure to lay insulation over top. This will reduce the possibility of condensation forming inside the tubing. For optimal airflow, both the trunk and branch lines should be as straight as possible using a minimal amount of elbows (See Diagram 2).
Thorough tube path planning will save time and effort. Check the proposed tubing path plans for possible obstructions (i.e. heating ducts, plumbing) or problem areas, and adjust inlet valve locations if necessary.

7. I will avoid excessively long tubing runs.
The length of tubing running from the exhaust to the furthest inlet valve from the power unit should be no longer than that recommended in the System Capabilities Chart (See Diagram 1). Excessively long tubing runs can affect performance.

8. This year, I will write in and ask Dave my questions.
Believe it or not, this is one of the most important resolutions on this list. There is no question too basic, and none too sophisticated, that we can’t all learn a little something.

Best of luck to Mark on the first of what I’m sure will be many successful installations. As for the rest of you, I look forward to a year full of your e-mails, letters and phone calls!

Ask Dave is a monthly column authored by Dave Schenk, OEM Products Manager for H-P Products and a 31-year veteran of the vacuum industry. If you have questions, concerns or tips for other dealers that you’d like to see addressed in future columns, send them to Ask Dave, Dave Schenk, H-P Products, Inc., 512 Gorgas St., Louisville, OH 44641; phone 1-330-875-5556; fax 1-330-875-7584; or send an e-mail to dschenk@hpproducts.net.

Reprinted from Central Vac Professional, February 2007